Adventures On The Wonderland Trail
2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 Links
The Wonderland Trail: 93 miles and enough elevation gain that you will have thighs of steel when done. The hike of a lifetime to wander a park that holds so many glaciers, frothing rivers and alpine meadows your eyes will never tire.
Trip reports, photos and ramblings on The Wonderland Trail around Mt. Rainier National Park. They are in order from most recent to when we first stepped on the Wonderland Trail in the summer of 2003. At the bottom of the page is a list of links and resources for the Wonderland Trail that we are building.
The Wonderland Trail: 93 miles and enough elevation gain that you will have thighs of steel when done. The hike of a lifetime to wander a park that holds so many glaciers, frothing rivers and alpine meadows your eyes will never tire.
Trip reports, photos and ramblings on The Wonderland Trail around Mt. Rainier National Park. They are in order from most recent to when we first stepped on the Wonderland Trail in the summer of 2003. At the bottom of the page is a list of links and resources for the Wonderland Trail that we are building.
2003
In 2003 Ford and I moved to King County, Washington.
I had been to Mt. Rainier when I was a child maybe 3 times, my memories of it were distant and far away. I had the vague memory of a big mountain with a lot of snow but no real reason why I should go back. I found these photos recently of me and my brother. I was maybe 3?
After all, could it really be that big of a deal? Having lived so far North for so many years I could barely see Rainier. Mt. Baker was my closest mountain and while tall, she isn't big.
When Ford and I stepped on the Wonderland Trail that summer of 2003 I was wowed. We did many sections as dayhikes and got an overnighter in as well before the snows came that fall. We saw our first Rainier black bears that year as well.
Sections hiked were Ipsuit Creek to the Carbon Glacier, White River Road to Summerland and parts up at Sunrise. I didn't see a lot but I did see that we were coming back. And so the planning started. All that winter that was all the hiking group talked about: The Wonderland Trail in '04.
Ford and I at Sunrise:
Return To Top.
I had been to Mt. Rainier when I was a child maybe 3 times, my memories of it were distant and far away. I had the vague memory of a big mountain with a lot of snow but no real reason why I should go back. I found these photos recently of me and my brother. I was maybe 3?
After all, could it really be that big of a deal? Having lived so far North for so many years I could barely see Rainier. Mt. Baker was my closest mountain and while tall, she isn't big.
When Ford and I stepped on the Wonderland Trail that summer of 2003 I was wowed. We did many sections as dayhikes and got an overnighter in as well before the snows came that fall. We saw our first Rainier black bears that year as well.
Sections hiked were Ipsuit Creek to the Carbon Glacier, White River Road to Summerland and parts up at Sunrise. I didn't see a lot but I did see that we were coming back. And so the planning started. All that winter that was all the hiking group talked about: The Wonderland Trail in '04.
Ford and I at Sunrise:
Return To Top.
2004
The Year of The Thru-Hike.
2004. I had never planned a long distance hike before. I had no idea what to expect, how to pack or even how to handle the hike. And what a crazy trip it became....time pressed with minimal vacation time for most of the ones coming,our trip kept getting shorter with more miles added on per day. With no experience of how brutal the elevation gains were I didn't think 10 miles a day was hard. Well, Mother Nature will always remind you just how hard of a task master she is.
The trip started with Rainrunner, Hoosierdaddy, Olyhiker and me. Later Dicentra would join us at Sunrise. Our permit was for 7 days.
Day 1: We all met at Longmire. Our first nights camp was Nickel Creek, about 12.75 miles and 3500 ft of gain away. The elevation was broken up into two sections, with the last miles in an airless forest, hot and dry. This section of the Wonderland sadly is the most lacking. Once you finally leave the throngs of day users at Reflection Lakes and quit crossing roads it gets very hot in late day. Nickel Creek isn't far off the main road either, just a bit from Box Canyon. We had decided to go this way (counter clockwise) to get the worst part out of the way. We knew though that Day 2 would be gorgeous. Sleep didn't come easy though. We were exhausted from the heat. Nickel Creek is a nice deep forest camp though. A large group camp with privy, two sites below it on the creek and another across the creek. It was at least cool, with plenty of water. The campsites are small though and we had to fit in 4 small shelters as none of us were sharing.
The future though was in front of me: my feet were killing me. I had made a huge mistake and had ill fitting trail runners on with only liner socks. Even on this day I had blisters forming. The downhills were slamming my toes into the toe box.
At the start, crossing Nisqually River: On the WT:
Hoosierdaddy, Olyhiker & me at Narada Falls: Reflection Lakes:
Stevens Creek:
Day 2: The next morning came too fast and in the cold darkness we packed up. The climb out of Nickel Creek is in dark forest on a hillside. Not attractive, and very dry. But then...suddenly you are pulling out of treeline into what many would consider some of the prettiest subalpine to be seen. Cowlitz Divide is a backbone that stretches for what feels like forever. The views only get better as you go higher. Behind you Mt. Adams becomes larger, the ridges become too many to count.
And then suddenly you are at the top. And below you is Indian Bar. Photos don't show it like it is - it is gorgeous. You descend down into the valley to cross Ohanapecosh River on a bridge over the falls. The moraine is massive from the nearly gone glacier that was once there. The trail follows the old moraine as it leaves IB. We spent a couple hours there cooling off in the creek near the river. The stone shelter for groups is indeed cool. The day was cloudless and baking hot. We left IB with wet clothes on and headed up to Panhandle Gap. A very long and very hot exhausting trip. With it being hot though we crossed only a few small snow fields at least. Below Panhandle Gap is a tarn in the alpine zone - looking back Adams is bigger than life, floating in the air. Panhandle Gap was easy to cross due to the low snow. As you pass Meany Crest you pass tiny tarns formed by the receding Meany Glacier. The crossing of Fryingpan Creek was "interesting". At the time there was a massive log over it. It teetered and rocked as you walked over it. Underneath was a sheet of snow and ice. We came into Summerland never so happy to see camp. HD and Olyhiker were not doing so well from the heat. It was in the low 90's that day. They were in heat exhaustion and we treated them. Summerland is beautiful but overused, though it does sport the nicest privy on the trail. Our camp was the last one left. It left a lot to desire. Ugly was the word. Oh well.
The day brought us about 11 miles and 5200 ft gain. It wasn't the miles but the elevation and heat that wore you down.
Looking at Rainier from Cowlitz Divide:
Olyhiker above Indian Bar: Indian Bar:
Shelter at Indian Bar: Ohanapecosh River:
Stream surfing at IB: Small tarn at 6500 ft.:
Rainrunner below PG: Me crossing near that tarn near Panhandle Gap:
Tarns below Panhandle Gap: In front of Meany Crest/Glacier:
Crossing Fryingpan Creek: Filtering water at Summerland:
In camp at Summerland:
Day 3: We woke up early in the cool air (yes, this is normal. Cold in morning, hot during day.) HD and OH were still not feeling so well. They elected that day to walk the couple miles down the Wonderland Trail to White River Rd. with us, then they hitchhiked a ride up to Sunrise. This allowed them to not get overheated again and have a rest day. Rainrunner and I set out after leaving them. We had to take the detour that year and use the car bridge over the White River and walk the road to White River campground. This hurt quite a bit to road walk and dumbly we turned down a a free ride from a ranger. If I had known how bad my feet were getting I would have - but I was full of pride of walking every real mile. We took a break at the campground to dump garbage and clean up. The trail to Sunrise laid ahead of us: straight up, dry and airless. It was a long hike up but we made it. The view of Rainier was gorgeous as we crested up. We walked into Sunrise to get our food caches and meet up with everyone who had come out to see us. We had a big late lunch at the cafeteria. And walked out into spitting rain to make camp at Sunrise Camp. Not fun. By the time we reached there my feet that had been killing me were literally beyond pain. I took my trail runners off to find I had blisters on blisters. Some had shredded - my toes looked like hamburger. Olyhiker helped me wrap my feet up. I was miserable though. I had never had such bad blisters before and didn't know how to take care of them. As the sun set I knew I was going home. I couldn't face anymore of this. My boots were wrong, my socks were a bad choice.
That night though was good. The gang was there and we had dinner with beer packed in by Durante (Rainrunner's man). He even packed in party cups and chips. Hikerdrew and his hiking party joined us as well - they were thru-hiking as well, the other direction and we had all met up there at Sunrise.
Rainier from Sunrise: Dinner at Sunrise above Shadow Lake:
So on Day 4....I left the trail. Dicentra took my place. I limped home feeling very let down from what had been a great trip. I would see every one in a couple days at Mowich Lake to resupply them and pick up Dicentra. In the end it was the other three that finished. Brutal and long but well worth it. It was a learning lesson though...and it would
Return To Top.
2004. I had never planned a long distance hike before. I had no idea what to expect, how to pack or even how to handle the hike. And what a crazy trip it became....time pressed with minimal vacation time for most of the ones coming,our trip kept getting shorter with more miles added on per day. With no experience of how brutal the elevation gains were I didn't think 10 miles a day was hard. Well, Mother Nature will always remind you just how hard of a task master she is.
The trip started with Rainrunner, Hoosierdaddy, Olyhiker and me. Later Dicentra would join us at Sunrise. Our permit was for 7 days.
Day 1: We all met at Longmire. Our first nights camp was Nickel Creek, about 12.75 miles and 3500 ft of gain away. The elevation was broken up into two sections, with the last miles in an airless forest, hot and dry. This section of the Wonderland sadly is the most lacking. Once you finally leave the throngs of day users at Reflection Lakes and quit crossing roads it gets very hot in late day. Nickel Creek isn't far off the main road either, just a bit from Box Canyon. We had decided to go this way (counter clockwise) to get the worst part out of the way. We knew though that Day 2 would be gorgeous. Sleep didn't come easy though. We were exhausted from the heat. Nickel Creek is a nice deep forest camp though. A large group camp with privy, two sites below it on the creek and another across the creek. It was at least cool, with plenty of water. The campsites are small though and we had to fit in 4 small shelters as none of us were sharing.
The future though was in front of me: my feet were killing me. I had made a huge mistake and had ill fitting trail runners on with only liner socks. Even on this day I had blisters forming. The downhills were slamming my toes into the toe box.
At the start, crossing Nisqually River: On the WT:
Hoosierdaddy, Olyhiker & me at Narada Falls: Reflection Lakes:
Stevens Creek:
Day 2: The next morning came too fast and in the cold darkness we packed up. The climb out of Nickel Creek is in dark forest on a hillside. Not attractive, and very dry. But then...suddenly you are pulling out of treeline into what many would consider some of the prettiest subalpine to be seen. Cowlitz Divide is a backbone that stretches for what feels like forever. The views only get better as you go higher. Behind you Mt. Adams becomes larger, the ridges become too many to count.
And then suddenly you are at the top. And below you is Indian Bar. Photos don't show it like it is - it is gorgeous. You descend down into the valley to cross Ohanapecosh River on a bridge over the falls. The moraine is massive from the nearly gone glacier that was once there. The trail follows the old moraine as it leaves IB. We spent a couple hours there cooling off in the creek near the river. The stone shelter for groups is indeed cool. The day was cloudless and baking hot. We left IB with wet clothes on and headed up to Panhandle Gap. A very long and very hot exhausting trip. With it being hot though we crossed only a few small snow fields at least. Below Panhandle Gap is a tarn in the alpine zone - looking back Adams is bigger than life, floating in the air. Panhandle Gap was easy to cross due to the low snow. As you pass Meany Crest you pass tiny tarns formed by the receding Meany Glacier. The crossing of Fryingpan Creek was "interesting". At the time there was a massive log over it. It teetered and rocked as you walked over it. Underneath was a sheet of snow and ice. We came into Summerland never so happy to see camp. HD and Olyhiker were not doing so well from the heat. It was in the low 90's that day. They were in heat exhaustion and we treated them. Summerland is beautiful but overused, though it does sport the nicest privy on the trail. Our camp was the last one left. It left a lot to desire. Ugly was the word. Oh well.
The day brought us about 11 miles and 5200 ft gain. It wasn't the miles but the elevation and heat that wore you down.
Looking at Rainier from Cowlitz Divide:
Olyhiker above Indian Bar: Indian Bar:
Shelter at Indian Bar: Ohanapecosh River:
Stream surfing at IB: Small tarn at 6500 ft.:
Rainrunner below PG: Me crossing near that tarn near Panhandle Gap:
Tarns below Panhandle Gap: In front of Meany Crest/Glacier:
Crossing Fryingpan Creek: Filtering water at Summerland:
In camp at Summerland:
Day 3: We woke up early in the cool air (yes, this is normal. Cold in morning, hot during day.) HD and OH were still not feeling so well. They elected that day to walk the couple miles down the Wonderland Trail to White River Rd. with us, then they hitchhiked a ride up to Sunrise. This allowed them to not get overheated again and have a rest day. Rainrunner and I set out after leaving them. We had to take the detour that year and use the car bridge over the White River and walk the road to White River campground. This hurt quite a bit to road walk and dumbly we turned down a a free ride from a ranger. If I had known how bad my feet were getting I would have - but I was full of pride of walking every real mile. We took a break at the campground to dump garbage and clean up. The trail to Sunrise laid ahead of us: straight up, dry and airless. It was a long hike up but we made it. The view of Rainier was gorgeous as we crested up. We walked into Sunrise to get our food caches and meet up with everyone who had come out to see us. We had a big late lunch at the cafeteria. And walked out into spitting rain to make camp at Sunrise Camp. Not fun. By the time we reached there my feet that had been killing me were literally beyond pain. I took my trail runners off to find I had blisters on blisters. Some had shredded - my toes looked like hamburger. Olyhiker helped me wrap my feet up. I was miserable though. I had never had such bad blisters before and didn't know how to take care of them. As the sun set I knew I was going home. I couldn't face anymore of this. My boots were wrong, my socks were a bad choice.
That night though was good. The gang was there and we had dinner with beer packed in by Durante (Rainrunner's man). He even packed in party cups and chips. Hikerdrew and his hiking party joined us as well - they were thru-hiking as well, the other direction and we had all met up there at Sunrise.
Rainier from Sunrise: Dinner at Sunrise above Shadow Lake:
So on Day 4....I left the trail. Dicentra took my place. I limped home feeling very let down from what had been a great trip. I would see every one in a couple days at Mowich Lake to resupply them and pick up Dicentra. In the end it was the other three that finished. Brutal and long but well worth it. It was a learning lesson though...and it would
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2005
The Year of Pain, Beauty and Going Cross country.
So what do you do after a trail nearly wipes you out? You go back. And so I did.
Mother Mountain Loop:
My friends Drew and Marty joined up with me in June to do the Mother Mountain Loop at Rainier. The loop covers the Wonderland Trail and the alternate trail through Seattle and Spray Parks. It is an incredible loop trail that is relatively underused.
You can start it in two places: Mowich Lake or Ipsuit Creek. We elected to start high and go downhill first, so Mowich it was. At nearly 17 miles it is a hike where you never quit moving. We started just after daylight came up and finished as the sun was threatening to go behind the ridges. We left Mowich Lake on the WT to Ipsuit pass and looked down, so far down to the Carbon River Valley. The miles go fast as you slam down the hanging valley. Hitting the super highway of the Carbon River Trail we headed upriver. (This trail doesn't exist currently due to the massive flooding in late 2006.) As we reached the Carbon Suspension bridge we hooked uphill towards Seattle Park. This trail is brutal - old with stairs cut into the trail. I believe this is the trail that coined "groinial cramps" from how bad it hurts climbing miles of stairs. As we broke out of treeline in lower Seattle Park I stopped. I knew I had found something even better than the alpine heaven I saw in 2004. This was what I loved: the look, the smell, the feeling that you could sit there forever and be happy.
We walked across upper Seattle Park in a near white out, following Drew closely. The upper park is a land of ice, snow and grey rocks. They painted years ago arrows on the rocks to show you where to go in whiteouts. Follow them closely for safety. As we crossed over the high point into Spray Park I found we had got lucky: the glacier (avalanche) lilies were in bloom. One reason so many go to Spray Park is to see those lilies. As we crossed those last miles back to Mowich I felt like I had done something that mattered to me. This trail was an intense journey - one that I hope is fixed down below.
Drew & I at Ipsuit Pass: Ipsuit Pass:
Looking down Ipsuit Valley: Carbon River plains:
The lower end of Seattle Park: Middle Seattle Park: Crossing the final ridge before Spray Park:
Drew & Marty at the top of Spray Park: Heading down out of Spray Park:
Kautz Creek to Indian Henry's Hunting Grounds and out The Wonderland Trail to Longmire:
Late August 2005. Drew tossed out to me an idea: a quick overnighter, a loop to grab some miles in that I hadn't done. Here it was, almost the end of August so why not? The trip was Drew, his friend Steve, Rainrunner, Ford and I. We parked cars at both ends to make a loop.
We started at Kautz Creek Trail. This was a trail that never stops, brutally climbing straight uphill to the blue sky. An awful trail in many ways but once you reach tree line it is simply beautiful. It is worth the pain of going up it.
We stepped over the high point and came gently into Indian Henry's Hunting Grounds. There we left the Wonderland and found the trail to Mirror Lakes behind the cabin. From there we took the old abandoned trail towards Pyramid Peak and then went cross country. We spent that night in absolute beauty. Ford and I found fresh black bear prints in the small water source. The huckleberries surrounding us were ripe. All you had to do was pluck then from your tent.
In the morning we headed down the Wonderland towards Devils Dream and out to Longmire. This is often day 1 for many thru-hikers. I was glad I was going the other direction.
Looking back at Mt. Adams: Ford nearing I.Henry's: The cabin at I. Henry's:
Resting at the cabin: Pyramid Peak: Sunrise & the start of a Lenticular cloud:
Ford, Drew & RR: Lenticular loud forming: On the WT, crossing Kautz Creek:
Return To Top.
So what do you do after a trail nearly wipes you out? You go back. And so I did.
Mother Mountain Loop:
My friends Drew and Marty joined up with me in June to do the Mother Mountain Loop at Rainier. The loop covers the Wonderland Trail and the alternate trail through Seattle and Spray Parks. It is an incredible loop trail that is relatively underused.
You can start it in two places: Mowich Lake or Ipsuit Creek. We elected to start high and go downhill first, so Mowich it was. At nearly 17 miles it is a hike where you never quit moving. We started just after daylight came up and finished as the sun was threatening to go behind the ridges. We left Mowich Lake on the WT to Ipsuit pass and looked down, so far down to the Carbon River Valley. The miles go fast as you slam down the hanging valley. Hitting the super highway of the Carbon River Trail we headed upriver. (This trail doesn't exist currently due to the massive flooding in late 2006.) As we reached the Carbon Suspension bridge we hooked uphill towards Seattle Park. This trail is brutal - old with stairs cut into the trail. I believe this is the trail that coined "groinial cramps" from how bad it hurts climbing miles of stairs. As we broke out of treeline in lower Seattle Park I stopped. I knew I had found something even better than the alpine heaven I saw in 2004. This was what I loved: the look, the smell, the feeling that you could sit there forever and be happy.
We walked across upper Seattle Park in a near white out, following Drew closely. The upper park is a land of ice, snow and grey rocks. They painted years ago arrows on the rocks to show you where to go in whiteouts. Follow them closely for safety. As we crossed over the high point into Spray Park I found we had got lucky: the glacier (avalanche) lilies were in bloom. One reason so many go to Spray Park is to see those lilies. As we crossed those last miles back to Mowich I felt like I had done something that mattered to me. This trail was an intense journey - one that I hope is fixed down below.
Drew & I at Ipsuit Pass: Ipsuit Pass:
Looking down Ipsuit Valley: Carbon River plains:
The lower end of Seattle Park: Middle Seattle Park: Crossing the final ridge before Spray Park:
Drew & Marty at the top of Spray Park: Heading down out of Spray Park:
Kautz Creek to Indian Henry's Hunting Grounds and out The Wonderland Trail to Longmire:
Late August 2005. Drew tossed out to me an idea: a quick overnighter, a loop to grab some miles in that I hadn't done. Here it was, almost the end of August so why not? The trip was Drew, his friend Steve, Rainrunner, Ford and I. We parked cars at both ends to make a loop.
We started at Kautz Creek Trail. This was a trail that never stops, brutally climbing straight uphill to the blue sky. An awful trail in many ways but once you reach tree line it is simply beautiful. It is worth the pain of going up it.
We stepped over the high point and came gently into Indian Henry's Hunting Grounds. There we left the Wonderland and found the trail to Mirror Lakes behind the cabin. From there we took the old abandoned trail towards Pyramid Peak and then went cross country. We spent that night in absolute beauty. Ford and I found fresh black bear prints in the small water source. The huckleberries surrounding us were ripe. All you had to do was pluck then from your tent.
In the morning we headed down the Wonderland towards Devils Dream and out to Longmire. This is often day 1 for many thru-hikers. I was glad I was going the other direction.
Looking back at Mt. Adams: Ford nearing I.Henry's: The cabin at I. Henry's:
Resting at the cabin: Pyramid Peak: Sunrise & the start of a Lenticular cloud:
Ford, Drew & RR: Lenticular loud forming: On the WT, crossing Kautz Creek:
Return To Top.
2006
2006 started my obsessive desire to hike as much PCT as I could so my attention got turned away from the WT. I did get up to Rainier quite often but it was for other trails and that was ok.
One trip we took in late summer was an overnighter in the Seattle Park area going cross country. The photos are of Ford.
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One trip we took in late summer was an overnighter in the Seattle Park area going cross country. The photos are of Ford.
Return To Top.
2007
2007 seemed to go so fast. I spent most of my summer hiking in other areas of Rainier, The PCT and other areas like Glacier NP. But I did get some time on the Wonderland. This was a quick trip where I took Trailhead up her first snow fields. I went first for some crazy reason ;-)
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Links
Websites on The Wonderland Trail:
The elevation profile: Yes, this can cause crying...
Mt. Rainier NP: A quick bio of The Wonderland Trail.
Mt. Rainier NP: An in depth bio of The Wonderland Trail.
Mt. Rainier NP: The permit process.
Mt. Rainier NP: How to do food caches.
Eyehike: My good friend Drew's website, he has thru-hiked the WT many times and has a wide range of information about it.
A personal site from a 2006 trip.
Articles:
The News Tribune: Quick article on the trail.
Books & Maps:
Discovering the Wonders of the Wonderland Trail: Encircling Mount Rainier
Mt Rainier National Park Hiking Map and Guide
Trails Illustrated Mount Rainier National Park Trails Map: This is a highly durable waterproof topo map that shows the whole Wonderland Trail.
Green Trail Maps: The can be found in every REI and NP/FS station in Washington State. You will need #269 & #270. Map #270S is a blowup of the Paradise area, not needed unless you are heading off the Wonderland Trail.
Free Maps: While not what you want for trail use, these are good for planning.
DVD's:
The Wonderland Project
Return To Top.
The elevation profile: Yes, this can cause crying...
Mt. Rainier NP: A quick bio of The Wonderland Trail.
Mt. Rainier NP: An in depth bio of The Wonderland Trail.
Mt. Rainier NP: The permit process.
Mt. Rainier NP: How to do food caches.
Eyehike: My good friend Drew's website, he has thru-hiked the WT many times and has a wide range of information about it.
A personal site from a 2006 trip.
Articles:
The News Tribune: Quick article on the trail.
Books & Maps:
Discovering the Wonders of the Wonderland Trail: Encircling Mount Rainier
Mt Rainier National Park Hiking Map and Guide
Trails Illustrated Mount Rainier National Park Trails Map: This is a highly durable waterproof topo map that shows the whole Wonderland Trail.
Green Trail Maps: The can be found in every REI and NP/FS station in Washington State. You will need #269 & #270. Map #270S is a blowup of the Paradise area, not needed unless you are heading off the Wonderland Trail.
Free Maps: While not what you want for trail use, these are good for planning.
DVD's:
The Wonderland Project
Return To Top.
