Trip
reports, blog entries, photos and ramblings on our love affair with the
PCT. They go in order from most recent to when I first stepped on the
PCT in the summer of 2003. At the bottom of this section is an in depth
list of links and resources for the PCT that we are building. Below are
links to the sections.
Chinook Pass To White Pass
My friend
Steve and I set out to do the section hike of Chinook Pass to White
Pass on the PCT here in Washington. We headed southbound on this
section. It is roughly 30 miles. We did it over October 3 & 4, 2007.
We
had been attempting to get a hike together for this section for a
couple years and suddenly HWY 123 was reopened last week, allowing us
to do a car shuttle (the two passes are under 40 miles apart via the
highways). Hwy 123 was one of the roads severely hurt in the storms
last November. One section of the road was completely ripped out, and
had been (miraculously) repaired this year.
We
took off on Wednesday morning before dawn to do the truck shuttle,
leaving Steve's truck at White Pass and mine 1K higher at Chinook Pass.
We left Chinook Pass in a snowstorm, the only vehicle besides us up there was the snow plow.
Overlooking Dewey Lakes far below:
A stream between the two Dewey Lakes:
One
thing we noticed this year is someone had gone in with a Sharpie marker
and had written on all the trail junction signs, making notes of which
way trails were, and helping with badly marked junctions (Laughingwater
Trail was a good example!) This shot was at the junction for American
Ridge, above Anderson Lake:
As
we entered the open area past American Ridge towards Two Lakes the
storms kicked up. It was snowing good and the wind was freezing. It was
well below freezing as well.
Me hiking uphill in this section:
As
we came near Crag Mt. the snow was 9" deep. And coming down in a near
blizzard. We stayed close together and kept moving - we knew we needed
to get over the high point and start going downhill as fast as we
could. A shot as we dropped over the high point of day 1:
We
dropped down from 5700 ft to 4100 ft and chose to camp near the Bumping
River. On the way down as we got lower the fall colors were very pretty:
Fish Lake was very pretty, and a relief from all the snow we had been seeing:
We
set up camp as fast as we could and grabbed water. It was dark within
30 minutes of getting to camp. We picked a protected area under trees.
It started to raining right after setting up, but by 10 pm had turned
to snow. We got about 2" of snow on Wed night.
Me wondering if I really want to get out of my tiny tent....it was barely 30*:
Our
morning started off with the crossing of the Bumping River. I took the
foot sliding off the rocks and lets just walk through it approach:
Our
day started after that by going uphill, gaining elevation and passing
creeks, meadows and lakes by the dozens. It was intensely quiet out
there, just the sound of our boots crunching the snow. We had crows and
ravens flying over us. In the snow we saw coyote, fox and black bear
tracks.
This
bridge we found "interesting". It wasn't planed on top, just round
logs. The snow made it "easier" to walk across, but still, it wasn't
enjoyable:
An old fence in the middle of wilderness:
A smattering of lakes:
We
had almost perfect weather for the first half of the hike on Thursday.
It was sunny with blue skies often. But, alas, the snow started up at
Snow Lake. It carried on for most of the way after that.
An old PCT sign at the junction with Dumbbell Lakes:
I think this was Beusch Lake, but I could be wrong ;-)
As
our hike was nearly done, less than a 1/4 mile from the trailhead, the
snow suddenly stopped and the sun came out. We walked out in pretty
weather.
Spent the weekend with my son Ford and two of my friends, Ldyblade and Trailhead on a laid back backpacking trip. We had decided to take it easy and let the weekend slide by and enjoy what can only be described as perfect backpacking weather....There is little like late summer/early fall backpacking!
Sunny blue skies, balmy temps, no bugs and a sky of stars at night. It did hit about 40* last night though. While everything is still green, you can see the first colors of fall creeping in. The Blueberry bushes are turning scarlet red. You can smell winter for that first time at night.
It was a nice trip...a laid back way of saying goodbye to summer. I turned my back this morning and had a spork stolen by a Chipmunk. Ford found it not far away....cleaned of all the chocolate peanut butter that was on it.
On the way back at Chinook Pass Ladyblade ran into and chatted with Joe Swank and his 2 friends who are thru-hiking. Ldyblade ready to go:
After we made camp I went exploring. I found this tiny meadow over the top of a ridge. Very pretty indeed.
After too many soggy gray days, this was one of those near perfect sunny blue skied August days. The kind where you cannot pass it up. Ford and I left early and were on the trail before the sun had warmed up.
Our hike was the Naches Peak Loop at Chinook Pass, here in Washington. To me, this hike is one of the prettiest and easiest to get to alpine hikes. It isn't long, you start at treeline and wander through meadow after meadow, floating by small lakes and tiny copses of trees. The views are what make the hike. Being on the Eastern side of the state it always seems to be a bit nicer and the skies more blue. Ford and I do this hike a couple times a year. Mid week near dawn means seeing almost no one. We encountered 2 couple returning from backpacking trips and that was it till we hit the end of the trail.
The trail starts on the PCT and wanders along till you cross a gap and enter Mt. Rainier NP.
Small lake on the PCT, looking back westish.
Mt. Rainer from the flower fields.
We wandered along enjoying our quiet time, scoring some ripe huckleberries in a small spot of them (micro climate I am thinking...the rest won't be ready for 2 weeks or so up there).
We went cross country and dropped into the upper basin above this front country lake, and wandered down the path to head out.
There was 5 of us, staring up at Mt. Hood last Thursday morning. We had driven above the clouds into blinding sun. There was me, Hoosierdaddy (who I hike with often), Mugs (we hiked together last year on the PCT), Yippykido (from Texas) and Ben2World (from California).
More than anything, the photos tell more of the story. We covered miles, watching the Mountain get smaller as we went farther North...heading to The Columbia River. We took 4 days for this trip. And I loved it. How could I not?
Leaving Timberline Lodge parking lot, heading for Mt. Hood:
Mt. Hood:
Mt. Hood, a moraine or two and a really cool waterfall (it fell for 2-3 thousand feet I would hedge, making a ton of turns).
Ben and Yipp:
Me, with Hood to my back:
The
Sandy River, second crossing...for me it was above knee. Easier for the
guys being taller. Mugs walked with me, arm
in arm, while we forded it:
We
crossed the Sandy, explored the old guard station cabin, high above. We
then went to Ramona Falls, then headed back down to the Sandy and
camped that night on a large bench. It was a good camp, and we had
company with two guys who were Brother-In-Laws.
Ben and Mugs-who is showing off his freezer bag cozy in action:
All of us had Ursack bear bags...I got them down every morning. I rise early, and I don't mind fetching the bags:
Day two:
I
wake up and go to the bathroom. My hiking pant zipper blows out. Oh
great. Oh well. For the next 3 days I walk with wide open pants.
Whatcha going to do? We
kept on north bound, meeting a family backpacking and heading north as
well. The Muddy Fork River was bridged...but the trail was DRY. No
water for many miles.
We
hit Lolo Pass, and area where you can drive to. The family had a car
there, with 5 gallons of ice cold water in it. We sat in the shade drinking all we could. It was
good water, I don't think I have EVER appreciated water that much.
While there was a tiny spring 1/2 a mile up north, we'd have had issues
getting enough. I have never had a trail angel moment - and this was one.
The family was continuing on, and we shared campsites the next two
nights.
The section after Lolo Pass went thru open forest and along the edge, with views of Hood often. We
found Salvation Springs down below the trail. It was getting late, the
sun was already setting. The spring bubbled thru a very marshy area. We
shared a filter for this water. It had lots of larva in it. I
rose early that 3rd morning. One thing that never changed was the
flies. The flies WOULD NOT leave me alone! Even when I was walking! The
flies were bad at Salvation Spring. They bit me often.
That day the hiking was easy. The trail plunked along, often in open areas, and pretty forest at the top of the ridges. Hood was getting smaller:
That
morning we ran into Dave, who is thru hiking from the Oregon border. He
had camped a little away from us the night before. I ended up hiking
with Dave for quite a few miles on Saturday. The guy was a hoot to talk
with. Ms. I-Am-Always-Behind-The-Group suddenly developed turbo speed
and left the group in her dust. Oops.
The
PCT crosses an old road and putters along and then suddenly comes into
a massive alpine scene you just don't expect. There were clouds in the
distant, but Mt. Adams was gorgeous. A shot of Dave: 54 years old, and hiking solo. One cool dude!
We all ended up camping at Indian Springs, an old car campground on a barely used jeep track. Ya know, picnic tables rock :p
The
wind howled all night up there, but it was a great camp. We all had our
own little campsite. Dave hung out with us, and I fed him some fudge
brownie I made with my FauxBaker. He is in the "no stove" group, and
dang it, it was all I could do to make him a hot meal! He was happy to
eat dry ramen for meals.
We woke up on Sunday morning to being in the clouds. I like that feeling.
We
left the PCT at Indian Springs, and took an old trail, #435 heading
downhill. The old trail was steep but a neat trail (2000 ft loss in 2
miles!) Eventually
we hit the bottom, connecting to the Eagle Creek Trail, which many thru
hikers take instead of the "true" PCT. I had done most of Eagle Creek
before, but still it is much prettier-and a whole lot wetter.....
Basically
a good chunk of the trail was blasted out of the canyon, so often the
trail is only a couple feet wide, with 100 ft or more of vertical drop.
The coolest part of the trail is Tunnel Falls. You walk behind a massive waterfall: From the other side:
To give you an idea of size, there is the rest of the group coming along:
The
rest of the hike was an onslaught of day hikers that never stopped.
Eagle Creek is very popular. With our very small packs few realized we
were backpacking. My pack was maybe 15 lbs at the end, it felt like a
daypack at that point. Return To Top.
Snoqualmie Pass South
My
friend Mike arrived in Seattle yesterday morning. He had a 22
hour layover on his way to Alaska. Hoosierdaddy picked
him up at Sea-Tac and we all headed to Snoqualmie Pass for a
short afternoon hike. Mike moved from the Northwest to Colorado
last year, so it was good to see him once again! Dicentra and her
daughter met up with as well at the pass.
We went south on the
PCT. Being after 1 pm, it was pretty warm, so a short hike was looking
nice. The ski resort at Snoqualmie Pass gives a nice fake feeling of
alpine. The flowers were in full bloom, a wave of red, blue and orange
filled the hillside.
We crossed over the ridge, and came to tiny Beaver Lake-more a wetland than a lake.
Down
into the woods we went, finally entering the rare old growth forests
that lie in this section that escaped the clear cutting bonanza of
3 decades ago. Lodge Lake lies in this section, a tranquil lake set in
trees:
We took a late lunch break here, sitting in the campsite above the lake. I made a salmon mac and cheese with red bell peppers:
Ford and Maddy sharing some lunch:
We went on a little bit farther, as I wanted to see what the next small lake on the map looked like:
It
was a lake and meadow combination, similar to Beaver Lake, but easier
to get down to. Next to the lake was an old PCT marker, part of the
tree now:
Trailhead, Ford and I did a probing of the snow on the PCT,
heading South from Chinook Pass, up just pass Mt. Rainier NP.
I
had hiked this section a number of times, but for TH, this was her
first time to walk on the PCT. Our section was snow free for a good
section, but eventually we did hit snow, as we lost our blazing hot
sun, and entered a section of subalpine trees.
Looking back at Chinook Pass, and Naches Peak to the left.
Ford on the PCT, with his newer MtSmith seraph pack on. We are wearing matching packs this year (I have a Ghost).
For
me the addiction, it didn't stop. The above stamp was from a past years USPS's
stamp collection, highlighting the PCT with Mt. Rainier in the
distance, looking North, with the hook of Little Tahoma visible.
Stevens Pass to Snoqualmie Pass:
I had wanted to hike from Stevens
Pass (Hwy 2) to Snoqualmie Pass (I-90) with friends for a long time,
but it wasn't easy to get vacation time together. And other trips
interrupted us over the years. One year it was The Wonderland Trail,
another year found me in the midst of buying a house and losing a lot
of time for hiking. Life has that way of interrupting plans and
changing your life's course. But finally we'd gotten all laid out, and
it happened. And it totally changed my view on life, yet again. It
wasn't even a long section, just under 80 miles, but it wowed me. We
spent those days exploring and slogging, my heart singing whenever we
crested a ridge and got views. We took 4 nights and 5 days.
A
shot of us as we headed to the start this past summer, I seriously
wondered at that point if I could do it, not the hike physically, but
more the mental part. From left in the parking lot at Stevens Pass: Josh, Tori, me, Dani, Steve, R. and Mugs.
My friend Dani, loitering in a meadow on the PCT.
One of the many pretty small lakes we passed:
R. He married my husband and I in the summer of 2006, and then walked on the PCT with me.
We ran out of daylight on the first night out, we came into our camp a good 1/2 hour after the sun set. As the sun rose on Day 2. Somewhere near Glacier Lake, a small tarn as we left camp:
As we left Glacier Lake behind us, we headed uphill to cross over the ridge and head down to Deception Lakes. The old Cascade Crest Trail went up here. Had I known how boring the PCT would be after this to Deception Lakes, I'd have headed up! The old CCT cuts off miles and is a lot prettier.
The lakes were pretty, the bugs horrendous. No photos. We kept moving. We kept going that day, crossing Deception Pass, running from bugs, crossing the creeks that run so deep and fast off of Mt. Daniel, and headed uphill to where we made camp in a small copse of trees. Night 2 I was never so happy to see. It had been a long day.
Day 3 started with a climb in the hot sun well before 8 am. We climbed up to Cathedral Pass, and headed down to Deep Lake. This should have been our camp for night 3, but it was barely 11 am so we kept hiking. Though it was downhill here, it was very hot and dry. My feet were chewed up by this point and I wasn't having fun.
Cathedral Rock near the pass:
Crossing Spinola Creek near Waptus River.
We spent night 3 in a camp on the far shores of Waptus Lake. It was a nice camp, below 3500 ft, and no bugs. A balmy wind, a river to clean up in and an actual privy.
We awoke very early on the 4th morning. Dani and I were hiking by 6 am or so. We decided to take the CCT for this section, go up to Waptus Pass and down to Pete Lake. We connected back to the PCT at Lemah meadows. Fording Lemah Creek felt good on my feet. The numbing cold stopped the oain.
While the trail up to Waptus Pass was pretty - the pass is gorgeous, I wouldn't recommend coming down it to Pete Lake. It was chewed up by horses, and was like walking on marbles.
Pete Lake:
The last night out we spent it in the Spectacle Lake Basin:
Above Spectacle Lake, before you enter Park Lakes Basin (Day 5):
Steve heading up out of Parks, towards the pass and start of the "traverse":
Steve heading down to take a break, with Rainier in front of him:
Saying goodbye at Ridge Lake that afternoon. It was late afternoon. I had the last food in my pack and then back to hiking. 7 1/2 miles to go.
Just pass Kendall Katwalk, 5 miles from the end.
The 5th day we hiked out, doing nearly 19 miles. That evening we ran into
Scott Williamson, who of course I had no clue it was him. He was
sprinting down the trail, all that had dinged in my mind was "sure is
late to be starting!" as I was within a mile or two of the parking lot
and it was pretty late in the day. Little did I know I had just been
passed by the man who has yo-yo'ed the PCT twice, back to back years. I
wasn't thinking too clearly at that point though-I was hungry, tired
and walking alone in a weird misery of pain. Yet a day later? I wanted
to be back on the trail. Who cared if I had bruised my feet wearing ill
fitting trail runners, it was still where I wanted to be.
Chinook Pass To White Pass:
We tried a month later to do the section of Hwy 410 to Hwy 12, but turned back due to a friend's injury. We made it to about a 1/2 mile past American Ridge. It was still a good trip even if we had to turn back, it was a chilly trip, flittering between cold winds, clouds and the sun. We camped at Anderson Lake and then doubled back.
In 2004 Ford and I did an overnighter on the PCT, heading North from Snoqualmie Pass to Ridge and Gravel Lakes. I had been to Knedall Katwalk in 2003, but had not gone beyond it.
On the way to Kendall Katwalk, Mt. Rainier rises high above the trees that block a view of Snoqualmie Pass.
Looking down at Ridge Lake, heading North. The view in the distance was a siren call for me.
Looking at Ridge Lake from the trail. Gravel Lake, we camped in the basin: Ford at 6 1/2 years old.
I stepped onto the Pacific Crest Trail. It wasn't a prime section
even, but yet I knew it was special. That overly chewed up section of
trail crossing a ski resort won me over, even as it tried to pull my
boots off in knee deep mud. Even the first steps I took on the
Appalachian Trail on the East Coast did not compare for me to that day.
Those
first few miles to Lodge Lake near Snoqualmie Pass, Wa on I-90 won me
over. I don't have the photos for that trip anymore, they were eaten by
a computer so long ago. But when I came to the lake, I sat down in a
campsite sitting in a cathedral of old trees. It was so peaceful.
Within a week, I came back and hiked another section, going North on
the PCT from Snoqualmie Pass to Kendall Katwalk. Now, that section gave
me what I wanted! It took me high up above treeline with views forever.
Then I knew it really was where I was meant to be. The trail going up
wanders thru some very old and pretty forest, before breaking out into
open alpine.
During that time we walked for the first time heading South of Chinook Pass. I didn't know at the time, but it would become one of my favorite hikes to do. The small tarn there, I have photos of it in every season.
Later that summer I saw Sheep Lake and Sourdough Gap for the first time, and got to see the back entrance overlooking Upper Crystal Lake. I found out how much I could love the PCT. It didn't matter if I went South or North. It
was all gorgeous with enough volcanoes in your vision for a lifetime.
Even
though it sits just a couple miles off of the Highway, Sheep Lake
feels like a 100 miles out (when you go mid-week!). It sits on the edge
of wilderness and civilization.
As summer turned into fall, we had a gorgeous Indian Summer. We pulled a last of the season trip backpacking North from Chinook Pass to Norse Peak.
"The 1200 mile Pacific Northwest Trail (PNT), running from the
Continental Divide to the Pacific Ocean, ranks among the most scenic
trails in the world. This carefully chosen path is high for the views
and long on adventure. It includes the Rocky Mountains, Selkirk
Mountains, Pasayten Wilderness, North Cascades, Olympic Mountains, and
Wilderness Coast. The trail crosses 3 National Parks and 7 National
Forests."
The
first time I had heard of this trail was a number of years ago, when I
lived on Whidbey Island here in Washington State. I was getting back into hiking, and came
across a reference to it, as the trail crosses part of the Island on
it's final race to the Olympic Peninsula and to the Pacific Ocean.
Over
a couple years I have walked a number of sections of the PNT, some in
Whatcom County, up near Bellingham, Wa, on Fidalgo and Whidbey Islands and
some up north in the Cascades. The sections on the Islands are very
pretty and accessible year round. The section on Fidalgo Island runs
thru the ACFL (Anacortes Community Forest Lands).
A turning point was when I bought the trail guide one summer at the Forest Service ranger station in Glacier, Wa. It opened my eyes to a trail that seemed to be wild and rolling on forever.
And
while I don't know if I will ever see the whole trail, I have in that
time walked on the Continental Divide, walked in Montana and Idaho and
yes, wondered even more where the twists of the trail would take me.